Thursday, April 3, 2008

Cead Mile Failte Connemara

Greetings from the sticks. (Name that Julia Roberts movie). I’m currently camped out in the seaside village of Connemara, Ireland spending the first two weeks of my spring break driving around the Irish countryside, hiking, climbing mountains, and playing a lot of card games. No internet out here you see, and as my cell phone only works to call Ireland, I’m pretty much cut off for the week (if you’ve emailed, don’t feel bad, I’m not ignoring you). So I’m getting lots of fresh air, hanging out on the beach, and tomorrow morning I have every intention of getting up at the crack of dawn to watch the sun rise over the water. (The Devaney’s told me to go ahead but I better not wake them up). It’s kind of a good feeling though, and living in an Irish house in a small town is an experience. We were back in Connemara’s favorite pub, Hughes, a few days ago. Siobhan started laughing and told us the old men at the bar were talking about us in Irish. Something along the lines of “I know that one, one of the Devaneys- but I don’t know the other two.” Muahaha, the mysterious Americans strike Spidal again. Word must be getting out that we’re here though, I’ve seen more Devaney’s in the last few days then I ever thought possibly existed. Apparently they’re all turning up to meet the guests. I’ve met 7 or 8 aunts and uncles already, but Siobhan’s parents come from families of 11 and 14, so my guess is that I’m no where near done yet.
We spent a day on the Aran Islands. I climbed all the way up to the top of a cliff and the proceeded to cling to the edge of it and look straight down. Beth and I found our dream house on Inis Mor island- we’re hoping we can make some money off of it if we dress it up and tell tourists it’s the birthplace of St. Patrick. Aran is also where I met the lovely horse pictured below...there was an apple in my pocket and he definitely knew it. We spent one morning going through a cave and that afternoon at the cliffs of Mohr. We’ve been to Kylemore Abbey- which is beautiful, and apparently Madonna almost sent her kids to boarding school there. We also went out to Achil, another small Island off the coast of Mayo County. We hung out on one of Europe’s 3 coral beaches for a morning and we also made the long steep climb up Croac Patrick mountain, between driving and hiking we were gone most of the day, but by the time we got to the top we were literally up in the clouds, pretty amazing. I’m sure my legs will forgive me for the climb someday.
Aside from that we’re teaching the Irish all of our silly American card games, we made dinner one night so they could experience American food. I baked chocolate chip cookies today- an interesting adventure considering they don’t have measuring cups in Ireland. I had to guesstimate everything- but it still worked out, Siobhan used “weighing scales” to measure everything while I was baking so that she can replicate my cookies later- so if you want my chocolate chip cookie recipe I can send it to you in ounces- Irish style.
The Devaney’s are teaching us a lot about life in Ireland too. My favorite new story…in this very catholic community they hold mass in a family’s home twice a year. Siobhan’s mom said it’s to bless the house. It turns into a day long thing with tea and socializing, and one of the rooms in the house set up so that the priest can hear confession. Mrs. Devaney said that when it was their turn her brother joked about hiding a tape recorder in the wardrobe so they could finally figure out who stole the goat. No one’s really sure if he actually did it, but maybe that’s a good thing.

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